![]() Go to the sink and use the toothbrush, dragging left and right, then use the towel, also dragging left and right. 9:00 Self-CareĬlick on the toilet, then press the button to flush it. 8:00 BreakfastĬlick on the schedule beneath the clock on the wall, then also examine the calendar on the side table next to your bed to see today's date (August 14) and the symbol of a door (August 20). What an awesome tool.Drag the blanket down to get out of bed. And I used it to… Well, you get the picture. And I used it to assemble all the 2x trim around the doors and windows. And I used it to reinforce all the butt joints in the fascia. And used it to assemble all the carriage doors that I attached to my roll-up shop door. I started using it on doors - built my 4/0 x 8/0 shop door with it, 2 1/2" thick. I've been using the XL for a lot of stuff - some things that really surprise me. I've added pneumatic clamps which has sped things up considerably, along with Aigner extension tables to each side. It's not comparable to the Hofmann or Ganner boring machines ($18k+) but it is quite versatile and has no stability problems with an 8' stile hanging off the end. Rangate sells boring bits that are 0.1mm oversized which makes fitting things together for a dry fit or during assembly so much easier.Īs far as boring machines go, I've had very good success with my Felder FD-250. Alignment was good but things are tight and it's hard to do dry fitting with this system.įor larger runs I much prefer using No-Rot dowels. I just made a small run of three exterior doors using the XL and Sipo tenons (70mm boring depth) and things went fine. It is amazing all the things we use it for now. We also have the smaller one, but the XL is more versatile. I loaned it to a buddy who built a bunch of exterior doors and he was very happy. Also just did an exterior 1/4 sawn white oak entry with cope and stick, which worked well. We did 20 1 3/4'' maple interior doors this summer with the XL. I think the 70 mm (like 2 9/16") is a good depth for door mortises, especially when ganging several per rail. The max tool plunge is 70 mm - you'll always be limited by that, unless you are through mortising from both sides of the stile. Sorry, it was late and I don't think in metric well. I'm mostly worried about sag pull on the joints and expansion with summertime high humidity. This particular door is completely shielded from driving rain by a deep, full length porch, so the exterior rating of the sipo isn't much of an issue. I'll have to check on the beech tenon stock lengths. So that also means that the tenon length would be 340mm or about 13 3/8". I wanted to use the longest possible tenons but I guess I'm back to the cutter head depth limitation - which is 170mm(?). It's interesting to hear that the sipo has lower tolerances than the beech. For doors that aren't cope and stick, I don't think I'd go back. It's hard to get the dominos out after a dry fit. As for longevity, I think it's as good as any loose tenon joint. A couple more doors and I'll have paid for it easy. This is a better way if you ask me, better take the tool to the wood than the other way around. I've had problems in the past mortising stiles on the multi-router getting deflection from a long piece, and also you can't go deep enough. Things came together well, very close to flush everywhere. The joinery went incredibly fast - you barely need to make a pencil mark on the wood other than keeping track of your reference surface. ![]() I don't like counting on the glue that much, so I switched to the precut beech dominos with much better results. I picked up the sipo sticks, but I found them to have a lot of variation in thickness, even within the same piece, as much as. I did 14 mm mortises, 170 mm deep which is the max. ![]() I just completed four entry doors with the XL. ![]() The XL seems even more like a bench top mount candidate. I played with the regular Domino when it first came out, and had the idea that it wouldn't take me long to work out a bench top platform and clamps to improve accuracy. Any thoughts on the durability/longevity of a Domino joined rail/stile? I'm also looking at a new Laguna Platinum slot mortiser. I have done both blind and through tenons in the past, but my slot/standup mortiser bits are never long enough, so a lot of hand work is necessary and I'm not getting any younger. Cutting multiple 14mm x 28mm to 254mm or longer from sipo for 8-12"w x 2"th rails into 8" x 2" stiles is the idea. Anyone using the Festool Domino XL with sipo stock for exterior loose fit mortise and tenons? I have a large (4' x 8') exterior solid wood door in quartersawn white oak to build and am considering one in lieu of chopping 3/4-1" full mortises. ![]()
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